Gökçeada Dereköy Village: A Greek Village Frozen in Time

Info	Details
Entry	Free (conservation area, open village)
Distance from center	14 km — ~20 min by car
Transport	Car required, no public transit
Visit duration	1.5-2 hours
Best time	April–June, September–October
Nearby spots	Laz Cove (10 km), Marmaros Waterfall (also check our Bademli Village guide) (7 km)

When I first went to Dereköy, in the west of Gökçeada, I didn't know what to expect. As you leave the center and drive west, the road narrows, olive groves thicken, and at some point your phone signal drops. The first thing I noticed upon entering the village wasn't the silence — it was the wind. A wind filtering through the stone walls, rustling the leaves. Then I looked at those empty streets, closed shutters, broken roofs, and thought: this was once the most populous village in the Balkans. Hard to believe.

A Brief History of Dereköy: From 1,700 Households to 361 People

Dereköy's old name is Şinudi (Greek: Σχοινούδι). Even Piri Reis mentioned this village when he visited the island in the 16th century. At its peak, there were between 1,700 and 1,950 households, with a population reaching 2,000. To put that in perspective: 22 coffeehouses, 2 cinemas, 1 theater, 3 olive oil factories, bakeries, pastry shops, barbers. Not a village — a small town.

The population exchange and subsequent waves of migration gradually emptied the village. The 2022 census recorded 361 residents. Today, about 140-150 households remain. Half are Greek Orthodox, half are Turkish families who settled from the Southeast. Two communities living side by side, quietly.

My observation: many call Dereköy a "ghost village," but that's not true. There are people, gardens are maintained, chickens roam. It's just not as crowded as before.

What to See in the Village: Stone Streets, Laundry, and Church

You don't need a plan to explore Dereköy. Park your car and start walking. The streets will guide you to the right places.

• Stone houses and streets: Classic Greek architecture — two-story, with a stable on the ground floor and living quarters above. Most are abandoned but still standing. Since it's a conservation area, even restoration is difficult.
• Ottoman-era communal laundry: Right in the middle of the village, a stone-arched structure. Water still flows — yes, centuries later. This wasn't just a place to wash clothes; it was a meeting point for women, the village square where news spread.
• Aya Marina Church: A restored Greek Orthodox church. Free to visit during the day. Every year on August 15, a commemoration ceremony for the Virgin Mary is held, and diaspora Greeks return to the island. That week, Gökçeada becomes a completely different place.
• Old olive oil workshop: Stone presses are still in place. Here you can see what olive oil means to this island.
• Century-old plane trees: The plane trees in the village square aren't just for shade — they mark the scale of time.

Last summer, I took a friend there, and she sat by the laundry for half an hour. "I don't want to leave this spot," she said. Parking can be tricky — you need to find a suitable spot at the village entrance — but once you're inside, you forget everything.

Day Trip Route: Dereköy + Laz Cove + Marmaros Waterfall (also check our Bademli Village guide)

Exploring Dereköy alone takes 1-2 hours. But I think the real pleasure comes when you combine it with nearby spots. You won't find this route together on any rival site — I've been recommending this trio for years:

1. Dereköy (1-2 hours): Go early in the morning. The light hits the stone walls beautifully, and the air is cool.

2. Laz Cove (30 min + swimming time): Follow the sign from the Dereköy road; after 10 km, descend 300 meters on a dirt road. You can drive within 50 meters of it. One of Imbros's most secluded coves. Quiet in winter, but that's another kind of beauty.

3. Marmaros Waterfall (also check our Bademli Village guide) (1-2 hours): 7 km by car from the Dereköy-Uğurlu exit, plus a 20-minute walk. The first waterfall is 3 meters high; the main show is 50 meters further — a 35-38 meter cascade. It flows powerfully in winter and spring, but by late summer the water diminishes significantly — timing matters.

This trio makes a full day. Bring food and drinks because there's no regular restaurant or market in Dereköy. Stock up in Gökçeada center before you go. Same for fuel — don't look for a gas station in the village.

Practical Information

Dereköy is registered as a conservation area, entry is free, and there are no time restrictions. It's 14 km from Gökçeada center, 20-25 minutes by car. No regular public transport — you need a vehicle; rental or taxi will get you there.

The best times to visit are April-June and September-October. Summer works too, but walking the stone streets in the heat can be tiring. If you come around August 15, you'll see the village alive, but that week the entire island is very crowded.

Islanders often say about Dereköy: "What a shame." I disagree. The real shame is leaving the island without seeing this village.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I reach Dereköy without a car?

It's difficult. There's no regular minibus or shuttle. You'll need to rent a car or take a taxi from Gökçeada center. I've seen people on bicycles, but it's 14 km with hills — come prepared.

What is the old name of Dereköy?

Şinudi (Greek: Σχοινούδι). It has been called Dereköy since Ottoman times. It also appears on Piri Reis's 16th-century maps.

Are there places to eat and drink in the village?

Very limited. Some summers a small place might open, but don't count on it. Bring water, snacks, and lunch from the center.

Falia Taverna is located in Dereköy and could be an option to try local flavors.

When can I visit Aya Marina Church?

It's open during the day, free of charge. On August 15, a commemoration ceremony for the Virgin Mary is held — that day the village is at its most crowded and colorful.