From Imbros to Gökçeada: The Island's 8,000-Year History

One thing I've come to realize over the years on Gökçeada is this: whenever you turn over the island's stones, another layer always emerges. Every time I pass by the Zeytinlik Mound, I stop and think about the people who planted the first seeds there around 6000–5000 BC. Since then, many peoples have held this island, but none let it go easily.

Islanders don't usually tell history like a tourist guide. When an old man in Dereköy mentions an empty house, the conversation inevitably turns to the migration story of his elder or neighbor. Reading about Imbros's history is one thing; living it is another.

8,000 Years of Settlement: From Pelasgians to Ottomans

First Settlers and Antiquity

The island's first known inhabitants were the Pelasgians, a people who lived here long before the Ionians, scattered across the rocky Aegean islands. You can find their traces in the mounds around Zeytinlikköy. Then came the Thracians, Persians, and in 494 BC, the Athenians under General Miltiades. Each civilization added a stone upon stone; some still stand among the Genoese castle ruins in Kaleköy.

During the Late Bronze Age, the island came under the rule of the Kingdom of Mira and Wilusa, led by Prince Mukkuš. In the Byzantine period, between 1204 and 1261, it briefly fell into the hands of the Venetians and Genoese. Perhaps the most exhausting chapter of history is this: every time a powerful hand reached for the island, the people living here had to adapt anew.

The Ottoman Era: 471 Years

In 1456, Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror conquered the island. For the next 471 years, Imbros enjoyed a relatively peaceful period under Ottoman rule. During the reign of Suleiman the Magnificent, the island was declared a waqf (endowment) and elevated to the status of a district (kaza) while previously attached to Limni. This status protected the island's assets, allowing the Greek population to maintain their churches, schools, and olive groves.

Ottoman rule ended on October 18, 1912. After eight to nine years of Greek administration following the Balkan Wars, the Treaty of Lausanne signed on July 24, 1923 ceded Imbros and Bozcaada to Turkey. Articles 37–44 of the treaty guaranteed religious, educational, linguistic, and property rights for non-Muslim minorities.

1964: How the Island's Identity Changed

The National Security Council Decision and Expropriation

The National Security Council's Decision No. 35 of March 27, 1964, citing events in Cyprus, formally initiated the transformation. 20,000 acres for the Ministry of Justice, 12,000 acres for the Ministry of Agriculture, plus additional land for military and educational purposes — over 30,000 acres of farmland were expropriated in total. The centuries-old olive groves of Greek farmers changed hands overnight.

Once, in Tepekköy, I spoke with an elderly woman who didn't want me to write her name; I understood. "We woke up one morning, went to the field. The field was gone," she said. She added nothing more; there was no need.

The Migration Wave and Today's Greek Presence

Between 1964 and 1966, six Greek primary schools and the central middle school were closed. When an open prison began operating in 1965, the daytime freedom of inmates caused more than 300 households to emigrate from Dereköy, which had 1,600 homes. In 1960, over 5,000 Greeks lived on the island; today that number has dropped to around 200–300 people.

On July 29, 1970, the island was officially renamed from Imbros to Gökçeada. Village names had already been changed in 1965. Those who left scattered to Athens, Istanbul, Australia, America; some even went to diamond mines in South Africa.

Yet the story didn't end there. In 2013–2014, the primary school reopened with just 4 students. In 2015–2016, middle and high schools opened their doors — after a 51-year hiatus. Today, these schools have 17 high school, 9 middle school, and 12 kindergarten/primary school students. Small numbers, but a symbolically heavy step.

Exploring the Historic Villages: Time Among the Stones

You feel this history best today in Bademlikköy (Gliki), Dereköy, and Tepekköy. The 1832 Evangelismos Theotoku Church in Tepekköy still stands; so does Barba Yorgo's tavern. In Dereköy, once one of Turkey's most populous villages, you'll find half-abandoned stone houses, old olive oil facilities, and a historic laundry. No parking, narrow roads, but the atmosphere is unmatched.

A photo of Ecumenical Patriarch Bartholomew, born in Zeytinlikköy, in the village square reminds you of this place's global significance. The village where the spiritual leader of the world's Orthodox Christians was born has become a quiet summer destination with restored stone houses and small cafes.

• Tepekköy (Agridia): Best-preserved Greek village, 1832 church, old Greek school ruins, Greek cemetery
• Dereköy (Ishnudi): "Ghost village" atmosphere, historic laundry, olive oil facility ruins
• Zeytinlikköy (Agios Theodoroi): Bartholomew's birthplace, Agios Georgios Church, cafes
• Bademlikköy (Gliki): Restored stone houses, reviving as summer homes
• Kaleköy: Genoese castle ruins and historic harbor area

All villages are 5–15 km from the center. Public transport is limited; you'll need your own car or a rental. In winter, the villages are nearly empty — atmospheric but melancholic. The best times to visit are May–June or September–October. To discover more about the island, check out Gökçeada's architectural heritage. You can also explore other businesses on Gökçeada.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does the name Imbros mean, and what is its origin?

It is thought to derive from the Luwian words "Imaura" (Great Mother Goddess) or "Imrašča" (open space). In ancient Greek, it took the form "Imbros," and the Ottomans called it "Imroz." The exact origin of the name is still debated.

When and why was the name changed to Gökçeada?

It was officially renamed from Imbros to Gökçeada on July 29, 1970. It was part of the Turkification policies that began in 1964; village names were changed in 1965, and the island's name in 1970. The name is thought to have been chosen by analogy with the neighboring island Bozcaada.

Are there still Greeks living on Gökçeada?

Yes, around 200–300 elderly Greeks still live on the island. The Greek population, which was over 5,000 in 1960, dropped to these numbers after the majority emigrated due to pressures between 1964 and 1975. Greek schools reopened in 2013 and 2015.

What did the Treaty of Lausanne say about Imbros?

The Treaty of Lausanne, signed on July 24, 1923, ceded Imbros and Bozcaada to Turkey. Articles 37–44 guaranteed religious, educational, linguistic, and property rights for non-Muslim minorities; however, the implementation of these provisions after 1964 has remained a subject of debate.

Are the historic Greek villages open to visitors?

Yes, all five Greek villages (Tepekköy, Dereköy, Zeytinlikköy, Bademlikköy, Kaleköy) are open to visitors and free to enter. They are all protected under urban conservation status. Most are largely empty in winter; the best times to visit are May–June or September–October.