Gökçeada (Imbros) Agriculture: 8,000-Year-Old Organic Island Guide

My first encounter with Imbros' soil was on a March morning. The wind was blowing from Marmaros, and an old man in the olive grove behind the village was beating the branches. "This tree is older than me and my grandfather," he said, stroking its trunk. That's when I understood: farming on Gökçeada is not a profession, but a repayment of man's debt to the land. The Uğurlu-Zeytinlik Mound, with its 8,800-year-old archaeological remains, proves this island is one of the Aegean's oldest farming settlements. Remnants of wheat, barley, peas, and lentils — planted and harvested here thousands of years ago.

Ladolia Olive: Turkey's Only Address

There's an olive variety that grows in only four countries worldwide: Spain, Italy, Canada, and Turkey. Turkey's sole address is Gökçeada. Ladolia — or Koroneiki, as it's known internationally — is the cornerstone of the island's agricultural identity.

On the island's soil, Ladolia olives are grown across 5,600 decares; the remaining land hosts Gemlik, Edremit, and Ayvalık varieties. From a total of 255,000 trees, an average of 3,000 tons of olives and 600 tons of olive oil are produced annually. The economic value of this output is approximately 210 million TL.

Millennium-Old Trees and Organic Heritage

In a special area belonging to the Treasury, olive trees aged 500 to 1,000 years stand. Walking among them one winter day, I saw how gnarled and resilient their trunks were — still bearing fruit despite the dry wind and salty air. Ladolia olives grow without any chemical fertilizers or pesticides, nourished only by natural animal manure. Harvesting is done with machines, but the soil remains untouched. Ecocert (IMO) certification documents this production.

Elta Ada Organic Farm has been producing since 2004 on 1,000 decares of olive groves with 16,000 trees. They start harvesting at the end of October; the oil, extracted using cold-press methods, tastes sharp, slightly bitter, with a hint of green almond on the palate. Comparing it to bottled oils from Istanbul would be unfair — but the parking is tricky, and you have to navigate narrow roads; still, it's worth it.

Winemaking: From Kalabaki to the Glass

Viticulture on Gökçeada has a longer history than commonly thought. Excavations at Yenibademli Mound uncovered grape seeds dating back approximately 5,000 years. After the Cyprus events triggered emigration from the island, the vineyards were neglected for a time, but there has been a revival in the last twenty years.

Native Varieties and Producers

The island's most valuable grape is Kalabaki: a late-ripening, small-berried, dark-skinned native variety. It is believed to have originated from the island of Limnos. Alongside it, Karasakız, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir are also cultivated.

Nusretbey Wines started in 2000, initially with international varieties, then turned to Kalabaki. İmroz Nympha launched Turkey's first organic wine production on Gökçeada — using biodynamic methods and low-yield viticulture principles. Tastings are available at the İmroz Wine House in Zeytinliköy. Sitting there one afternoon, taking my first sip of Kalabaki, it wasn't a familiar taste — a bit earthy, a bit sea-salty, just like the island itself.

Honey, Cheese, and Heirloom Wheat

Thyme Flower Honey

The abundant thyme in the island's natural flora produces a monofloral honey: light golden, bittersweet, intensely aromatic. Harvesting takes place from May to the end of August. The Gökçeada bee is a registered breed — different from the mainland, resistant to wind. However, in 2024, the bee population declined by 30 to 60 percent; a digital pheromone trap application was initiated. This issue deeply worries the islanders.

Goat Cheese

Hard goat cheese made from daily goat milk is aged for 9-12 months. Varieties include tulum cheese, lokum cheese, and aged types. Gökçeada milk is also used in Ezine cheese production. At Mutlu Keçiler Farm, 99 percent Saanen goats are raised — producing organic milk, kefir, ayran (yogurt drink), yogurt, and cheese. Elta Ada produces 5 tons of organic milk daily; they produced Turkey's first organically certified yogurt, pasteurized milk, and cheese varieties.

Eppek and Stone-Mill Bread

Kafkas Kızılı, Karakilçik, Şahman, Zerun — about 20 varieties of heirloom wheat are grown without pesticides. They are ground at Şahinkaya Cooperative's 100-year-old stone mill and made into sourdough bread. Founder Burak Soykan has left the team, but the mill operation continues; the cultivation area has been reduced to focus on quality.

İmroz Sheep and the Island's Animals

The island is home to approximately 50,000 Gökçeada sheep and 25,000 goats. The İmroz sheep is found nowhere else in Turkey except Gökçeada — small-bodied, hardy, roaming freely in semi-wild conditions. No supplementary feed is given; they graze only on island pastures, meaning 100 percent organic nutrition.

Last spring, I came across a flock above Eşelek. There was no shepherd; the sheep were going their own way. Geographical indication registration is nearing completion, which will add significant value to the meat. But note: İmroz lamb meat is above market prices, and due to limited production, it usually requires pre-ordering.

Crossbreeding with modern breeds and the younger generation's move away from livestock farming threaten the breed. The island is quiet in winter, but that's another kind of beauty — only sheep and wind remain in the pastures.

Farm Visits and Practical Information

After crossing to Gökçeada by ferry in about an hour, you can start farm tours. Since public transport on the island is limited, a car — rented or your own — is essential. Here are places to visit:

• Elta Ada Organic Farm (near Zeytinliköy) — Organic breakfast, farm tour, product sales. 650 cattle, 400 sheep, 500 goats.
• Mutlu Keçiler Farm — Saanen goats, organic dairy products, semi-open shelters.
• Nusretbey Wines — Vineyard visit and wine tasting.
• İmroz Wine House (Zeytinliköy) — Kalabaki wine tasting and sales.
• Farmers' Market — Every Sunday in the Town Center, part of the Slow Food Earth Markets network. Çınar Restaurant is also located in the center, offering delicious meals using local island products.

For online orders, local products like olive oil, honey, cheese, and soap can be purchased from gokceadamdan.com and adaruzgari.com. When buying, look for the Ecocert or ORSER label — these certifications guarantee organic production. For more information about Gökçeada's population, check our related guide.

The year 2026 is planned as a breakthrough year for agriculture on Gökçeada. District Governor Osman Acar announced that village-by-village planning has been done, with separate projects prepared for each neighborhood. The island's geographical structure allows for this diversity — 35,000 decares of farmland, 20,000 decares of irrigated area. But tourism drawing away agricultural labor is a serious problem; many young people who used to work in the fields now work in hotels during the season.

Frequently Asked Questions

What agricultural products are grown on Gökçeada?

Olives (Ladolia/Koroneiki and table varieties), grapes (including the native Kalabaki), thyme honey, goat cheese, heirloom wheat, artichokes, lavender, bay leaves, figs, and aronia are the main products. In livestock, İmroz sheep and Gökçeada goats stand out.

Why is Ladolia olive special?

It's a rare variety grown in only four countries worldwide. In Turkey, it is found exclusively on Gökçeada. There are thousand-year-old trees, and it is entirely organic — grown without any chemical fertilizers or pesticides.

Can I visit farms on Gökçeada?

Yes. Elta Ada Organic Farm and Mutlu Keçiler Farm are open to visitors. They offer organic breakfast, farm tours, and product purchases. The wineries in Zeytinliköy are also visitable. Entry is usually free.

Where can I buy Gökçeada olive oil and cheese?

Local product shops in the town center, the Farmers' Market held every Sunday, and direct producer sales in the villages are the best options. For online orders, gokceadamdan.com and adaruzgari.com can be used.

What is the best time for agritourism?

May's Herb Festival, September's grape harvest, and October-November's olive harvest are ideal periods. Thyme honey harvest is from May to August, and artichoke harvest from April to June.