Gökçeada Tepeköy Guide: Historic Greek Village & Taverns

Tepeköy's Story: From 1,200 to 60, Then Rebirth

In the 1960s, the population was around 1,200, almost entirely Greek. The migrations that followed turned the village into a ghost settlement; at one point, the population dropped below 100. Abandoned stone houses, broken windows, silence.

Then Barba Yorgo arrived.

Yorgi Zarbozan returned to his birthplace from Istanbul about 26 years ago. He first opened a small tavern in the square, started making wine from grapes from his own vineyards. The village slowly came back to life. In recent years, more Greeks have returned, and the summer population reaches 400-500. Islanders often say, "Barba Yorgo saved Tepeköy," and they're not wrong.

Lost Crafts

Once, the village had 2 olive oil and soap factories, 9 weaving workshops, 3 kasseri cheese dairies, and 4 carpentry workshops. Keen eyes can still spot remnants of these structures—a loom leg embedded in a wall, old Greek script above a door. Last summer, while wandering the back streets with friends, we found the ruins of an old soap factory. The door was gone, but the stone basins inside were still intact.

Where to Eat in Tepeköy

Barba Yorgo Tavern

At the village entrance, under a huge pergola. Barba Yorgo is now in his 80s but still there, walking among the tables. He produces 5 types of homemade wine from his own vineyards. The food is simple and fresh. To be honest, prices can seem a bit high—but here, you're paying not just for the meal, but for the story you're part of. If Barba Yorgo comes to your table one evening and offers you wine, you'll remember that moment for a long time.

Angelikis Tavern

Right across from the village square coffeehouse, opened in 2016. Owner Angeliki is one of the Greeks who returned to the village. Their lamb tandır (slow-roasted lamb) made from Gökçeada's native örkü sheep is especially famous. Portions are generous, prices more reasonable than Barba Yorgo's. A warm, friendly place—it feels like you're a guest in someone's home.

Don't miss the village coffeehouse. The square's coffeehouse is the islanders' meeting point. It's the only place to get a frappe, and be sure to try the famous Greek dessert tatlı süt böreği (sweet milk pastry).

Must-try flavors:

• Homemade wine (from Barba Yorgo)
• Lamb tandır (from Angelikis)
• Thyme-seasoned lamb chops
• Frappe (from the village coffeehouse)
• Sweet milk pastry

Sights and Activities

Village Center: Church, Cemetery, and Narrow Streets

The Evangelismos Teotoku Church, dating from 1832, is in the village center. Usually visible from outside, it opens during the festival period. The nearby old Greek cemetery is a quiet, contemplative place. Walking along the narrow streets, you pass whitewashed and stone-walled houses. Some have been restored, others still resist time. In winter, the village is almost empty, but that has its own beauty—along with other Imbros villages like Bademli Village, you'll see a completely different side of the island in winter.

Çınaraltı (İspilya) Picnic Area

Just near the village, a spot with a 625-year-old monumental plane tree and an ancient spring fountain. A great place for a family picnic with a view. Sitting under the tree, looking out over the plains of Imbros, feeling the cool breeze—simple but memorable. Parking can be tight, especially on weekends when a few cars barely fit side by side, but it's worth it.

Virgin Mary Festival (August 14-16)

Held annually on August 15 for the Dormition of the Virgin Mary, this festival is Tepeköy's busiest and most atmospheric day. In recent years, celebrations have spread to August 14-16, sometimes even 10 days. Large cauldrons cook food in the square, sirtaki dances begin, wine flows. Thousands attend.

A note: In 2023, the official festival was canceled due to a complaint to the government hotline (CİMER). But the villagers organized their own—that shows Tepeköy's character. It's wise to check the current situation before going. For other cultural events on Gökçeada, you can also explore the island's Greek heritage.

Pınarbaşı (İspilya) Stop on the Way

On the way to Tepeköy, at the fork in the road, you'll come across Pınarbaşı—a rest stop under a large plane tree with a sea view. The cool breeze never stops. I always stop here for 10 minutes and look at the view. A nice midway point for those exploring Gökçeada by car.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I get to Tepeköy?

It's 11 km from Gökçeada's center (Çınarlı). You can reach it in 20-30 minutes by private car, municipal bus, or taxi. The road is paved and signposted. Municipal bus services run in summer but are limited in winter; renting a car is more practical.

Is there an entry fee for Tepeköy?

No. Tepeköy is an open village settlement with no entry fee. Taverns, coffeehouses, and streets are freely accessible.

Is Barba Yorgo Tavern recommended?

Absolutely for its atmosphere and story. Barba Yorgo's 5 types of homemade wine are the village's symbol. The food is simple and fresh. Prices can seem a bit high, but it's worth it for the experience. The other option, Angelikis Tavern, stands out with larger portions and more affordable prices.

When is the Virgin Mary Festival?

It peaks from August 14-16, with the main date being August 15 each year. In recent years, celebrations can extend up to 10 days. Food is cooked in cauldrons in the square, with sirtaki dances and a wine festival. Confirm with the municipality before going for current information.

Is there accommodation in Tepeköy?

The village has a limited number of guesthouses and boutique accommodation options. Most visitors stay in Gökçeada center or Kaleköy and visit Tepeköy as a day trip. Advance reservation is essential during the August festival period.