Gökçeada Zeytinliköy Guide: Cafes and Dibek Coffee

When someone says "let's go for coffee" on Gökçeada, there's no need to ask where — everyone means Zeytinliköy. It's always the first place I take my guests; you haven't really seen Gökçeada without having a coffee in Zeytinliköy. Just 3 kilometers from the center, this small village is the most colorful and lively stop on Imbros. Known in Greek as Aya Teodori, Zeytinliköy takes its name from the hundreds of olive trees surrounding it. As one of four protected villages, its stone houses, narrow streets, and traditional architecture have remained intact to this day.

History and Cultural Fabric of Zeytinliköy

Recorded as "Ayatodori" in 1928 records, the village has carried the traces of Greek culture for centuries. The permanent year-round population is around 50-60. But don't be fooled by this small number — especially in recent years, cafes and venues opened by Greeks returning from Greece have revitalized the village.

Patriarch Bartholomew I, the spiritual leader of 300 million Orthodox Christians worldwide, was born right here in this village in 1940. There is a bronze bust in the village square. He visits his birthplace several times a year. This detail alone makes Zeytinliköy a place of significance beyond Gökçeada.

The Agios Georgios Church on the hill dates back to 1838 and is the oldest church on the island. It's usually closed, opening only for special services. The climb takes some effort, but the view of the village and surroundings from the top is worth the sweat. I went up with a friend last summer; the wind was strong, but you could see as far as Tepeköy.

Dibek Coffee and the Village Cafes

Madam's Coffee: A Tradition Since the 1970s

Coming to Zeytinliköy and not having dibek coffee is like coming to the island and not swimming in the sea. The starting point of the village's dibek coffee tradition is Madam's Coffee. Opened by Madam Estratia in the 1970s, this place has been run by her family since her passing in 2003. Dibek coffee is prepared by grinding coffee beans in a stone mortar with a 10-kilo iron pestle and then sifting them. It's freshly ground daily, never made in advance.

To be honest, in my early years, I found dibek coffee overrated. Then I got used to it, and now I recommend it myself when guests come. Its taste is different from regular Turkish coffee — lighter, more earthy.

The Square and Side Street Venues

Most cafes are gathered in the small village square. But you'll also come across a few in the side streets. The Greeks decorate their cafes with all kinds of flowers — wisteria, geranium pots, ivy. The comparison to "Cuba" might be a bit cliché, but the colorful doors and windows really do make a great backdrop for photos.

On the menus, you'll generally find:

• Dibek coffee (must try)
• Mastic pudding — especially at Barba Hristo, a tradition over 70 years
• Frappé — a lifesaver on hot summer days
• Homemade lemonade and island sage tea
• Homemade pizza and jams at Mina Cafe

Where to Eat and Stay

Venues and Restaurants

Son Vapur Meyhane started in Istanbul's Ortaköy in 2002, moved to Imbros in 2008, and opened a branch in Zeytinliköy in 2018. Signature dishes include a hot herb plate with island greens, fish pastırma (cured meat), and octopus with béchamel. There's live music; reservations are essential for dinner: 0538 415 57 00.

At Dami Rum Meyhanesi, the goat tandır (slow-cooked goat) and Greek-style chicken are worth trying.

At İlissos, the Greek-style moussaka and hot fava go well in the stone courtyard. The venues change a bit each season — some faces leave, new ones come, but the village's spirit remains the same. One closes, another opens. But the village's spirit stays the same.

Accommodation

Don't look for big hotels in Zeytinliköy. There are a few boutique options: Zeydali Hotel consists of 3 restored Greek stone houses and fits the village's character. Yeşil Ev Butik Otel, Son Vapur Otel, and Panayota Evi are other alternatives. Prices vary by season and occupancy. In midsummer (July-August), it's wise to book ahead. Staying in Bademli Village or the center and visiting for the day is also a practical option.

Practical Info: Transport, Parking, and Tips

I wouldn't say parking is a problem, but it's best to come early on summer weekends. The village streets are narrow, and cars don't enter — anyway, you can't fully appreciate it without walking. There are steep slopes; I see people in heels every summer, and every summer they regret it.

There's no regular public transport to the village. A car or taxi is the most practical way. If you want to explore Gökçeada fully, let me suggest a nice route: morning in the center, afternoon coffee break in Zeytinliköy, sunset in Kaleköy. That way, you'll see three different faces of the island in one day.

If you're coming in autumn, there's a bonus: don't pass by the blackberries lining both sides of the road turning from the main road into the village. They last until early November.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I get to Zeytinliköy?

It's 3 km from Gökçeada center. 10-15 minutes by car. No regular public transport. The most practical way is your own car or a taxi.

Where can I drink dibek coffee in Zeytinliköy?

The most famous is Madam's Coffee — a tradition since the 1970s. You can also find dibek coffee at almost all cafes in the village square. It's freshly ground daily in a stone mortar.

If you're craving something sweet, you can stop by İspilioti Sweets & Cafe.

Is there an entry fee for Zeytinliköy?

No, entry to the village is completely free. Normal menu prices apply at cafes and restaurants.

When is the best time to visit Zeytinliköy?

Cafes and venues are at their liveliest between June and September. Spring and autumn are quieter and greener. In winter, some cafes may be closed, but the village's peaceful state is also enjoyable.

If you're curious about other villages on Gökçeada, check out our Gökçeada villages travel guide. In this guide, you can discover the island's most beautiful villages and plan your trip.

Is there accommodation in Zeytinliköy?

Yes. There are small boutique options like Zeydali Hotel, Yeşil Ev Butik Otel, Son Vapur Otel, and Panayota Evi. No big hotels; early booking is recommended.

For transportation to Gökçeada, visit our ferry schedules page.